Russia Diaries
Russia!
For real?
Did you really think this through?
Well, at least you will feel like home with your grumpiness.
That’s how around 90% of the people, I told about my Russian vacation plans, reacted.
Of course, I wasn’t driven by the desire for a break for my risible muscles, but by the curiosity about Moscow, its brutalist soviet architecture and so many questions:
Are the sculptures of Lenin and Stalin really that big and the cupolas of the Russian churches that golden?
Is Borscht really that good?
Is the prejudice of the grumpy Russian true?
Many of these questions were answered on my journey, which took me to St. Petersburg and then along the Golden Ring to Moscow. The monuments are monumental, Borschtsch delicious and the cupolas of Russian churches that golden. The inhabitants of Moscow and St. Petersburg aren’t less or more friendly as Berliners or Parisians and you won’t be beaten up as a response on an accidental smile in public. Someone even smiled back at me, when an unintended grin crossed my face in the Moscow Metro. I rarely experienced so much honest hospitality as in Russia. Besides the friendliness & the random rusty Ferris wheels cluttered around in parks, I made another random observation. I have never noticed so many male civilians in questionable military inspired camouflage apparel before. However, very trendy among the female population seems to be t-shirts depicting Putin portraits. While you might find at least one young woman in a Levi’s t-shirt in every corner of Amsterdam, you will be able to spot women of all ages wearing Putin T-Shirts in Moscow.
My favorite places, apart from the Red Square and the Lenin Mausoleum, are summarized here.
St. Petersburg
Hermitage Museum
When I think of St. Petersburg, I see pictures of the endless corridors and walls of the Hermitage, overflowing with works of art. For me, the Hermitage is the epitome of St.Petersburg. Because of it’s collection size, the museum is definitely worth a visit. The Hermitage hosts one of the most important collections of classical European art. You can discover a wide variety of artworks of various origins and epochs, from archeological discoveries and renaissance art to contemporary art. Unfortunately, the rooms of the Hermitage do not only overflow with works of art, but also with visitors (maybe I was in the wrong place at the wrong time). Squeezed between the visitors, one must fight through the big crowds and watch out not to be accidently beaten up by a selfie stick in order to be able to see the masterpieces. Besides patience and self assertion, you should bring time, a lot of time. The artworks in combination with the impressive interior design of the Hermitage are more than a worthy reward.
The State Russian Museum
St. Petersburg offers a wide selection of other fascinating art collections besides the Hermitage. The State Russian Museum is a great alternative or/and addition to a visit to the Hermitage. Focussing exclusively on Russian art, the presentation of the art collection of the State Russian Museum provides a comprehensive overview of the Russian history of art. From 12th century icons to Marc Chagall, Kasimir Malewitsch and Marie Bashkirtseff and a wide variety of contemporary art pieces, there is much to discover in the Russian Museum.
State Museum of Political History of Russia
The State Museum of Political History provides an interactive insight into the political history of Russia from the Russian Revolution to the Downfall of the Soviet Union and its consequences.
Peterhof
Everyone who scrutinizes the Russian obsession with gold an pomp, should definitely visit the Peterhof. The palace is the epitome of the splendor and golden kitsch, so often connected with Russia. Especially the park, with its different levels, fountains and gardens, ranging from the castle to the Baltic sea coast, impresses. Just a few meters away from the gardens, overcrowding with flowers in different colors and fragrances, the sea piles up like a big grey mountain.
Stolle
During my time in Russia, hardly a day passed without me taking advantage of access to Pirogi. My main Pirogi reference point was Stolle, a restaurant reminiscent of Austrian coffeehouses, with the best dumplings I have eaten so far.
Teremok
Teremok is a fast food chain in various Russian cities, such as St. Petersburg or Moscow. Be sure to try blini (Блины), a type of pancake rolled up and filled with various savory or sweet deliciousness. Combined with borscht (борщ) and kvass (Квас), a drink similar to malt beer (beware, the taste needs a bit of getting used to), the blini are an ideal snack.
Pelmenya
Pelmenya offers a large selection of different dumplings, so-called pelmeni (пельмени). The dishes are ideal for sharing. It is advisable to take the opportunity to split the meals in order to enjoy as many different dishes as possible.
BabJib-M
The Korean restaurant BabJib-M is located on a side street off Nevsky Prospekt and is definitely worth a visit for a portion of Bibimbap.
Ciderbar Sidreria
The Cidebrar Sidreria is the ideal destination for anyone looking for live piano music in candlelight, ciders as far as the eye can see and sofas that are as cozy as those from grandma’s reception room.
Moscow
Gorky Park and Garage Museum
Before my trip to Russia, I was aware of the Gorki Park only as the title of a thriller from the 1980s. Nowadays, the park has nothing in common with its bleak portrayal in the movie. Instead of murder victims, you will find hundreds of people enjoying the sun in the impressive park, with its 109 hectare. On a sunny day, various groups of people, from students, learning and reading, to exhausted parents, looking after their children running through a yoga class, populate the green spaces and its comfy seating areas of the park. Joggers will pass you on your stroll through the park, where you can observe Retro Carousels, young couples in pedal boats and friends, in deep conversations over a cup of coffee.
The Garage Museum, founded by Dasha Zhukova and Roman Abramovich is situated in the middle of the park. It is home to the largest collection of contemporary art in Russia.
Gulag Museum
The exhibition of the Gulag Museum focuses on the exemplary depiction of the individual fates of the victims of the Soviet forced labour camps. Interactive elements, such as personal belongings, video installations and interviews with survivors of the Gulags, try to explain the Stalinist purges in an impressive way.
Pushkin Museum
The Pushkin Museum houses one of the largest collections of European art in Russia. The collection consists of works by Rembrandt and archaeological artifacts to paintings by Picasso and Gauguin. The curatorial approach, presenting contemporary art, such as antique looking sculptures with a selfie stick, in the context of historical artworks, enables an unusual view on the museums collection.
Bolshoi Theater
Two tips for a visit to the Bolshoi Theatre: If you want to save money, you should push through the Russian version of the website of the Bolshoi with the help of Google Translate. Moreover, you should keep the dress code in mind. Especially Russian women seem to take their evening apparel very serious.
Aptekarskiy Ogorod Botanical Garden
The Aptekarsky Ogorod botanical garden in the middle of Moscow provides a break from the grim concrete landscapes and the hustle of the city.
Beer Happens
Beer Happens offers delicious beer + delicious food. What more do you need for a successful evening?
Danilovsky market
Wandering between the stables of the Im Danilovsky Market, you will see fruit piled up next to carefully constructed cheese towers. A few meters away from the cheese, you will find an iceberg towered with fish and a pyramid build with jars full of delicious homemade marmalade, just a few meters away from huge pieces of meat hanging from the ceiling. There is something for each taste, from Vietnamese pho to strawberry waffles. I really recommend to try the pho soup in the Vietnamese Cafe Bo though.
Suzdal (Суздаль) - Golden Ring
The Golden Ring is a route connecting several Russian cities, which provide an extraordinary insight into the long history of Russia. Around 220 km away from Moscow lies one of the oldest cities in Russia, Suzdal. Here, you can discover numerous beautifully decorated, but often disintegrated historically significant churches and monasteries. I spend my two day stay strolling around the city center and its surroundings, always following the golden cupolas. Due to the good food and its cute wooden huts, a stay at Pushkarskaya Sloboda Hotel is recommended. Since my visit, I fantasize about spending Christmas in one of their cottages, surrounded by snow.